Final Day (30) - Santa Irene to Santiago de Compostela

 The milestones become more frequent the closer you get to Santiago, and the path gets busier. I witnessed ‘pilgrims’ being dropped off by taxi just a couple of kilometres out, I can’t imagine their immortal souls will be much benefited by the Camino experience!

I made it to the iconic square in front of the Cathedral a little after eleven. A sea of people; old, tired pilgrims like me, sitting on their rucksacks and enjoying the moment in the late morning sunshine. Youth groups in brightly coloured T-shirts revelling in the experience and in each other’s company, little groups of nuns scurrying about their daily business. The Cathedral itself is magnificent. Construction began in 1075 in the Romanesque style, with later Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque additions creating one of the greatest and most influential churches in Europe. After the statutory beer, I checked into my hotel, a little attic room with windows overlooking the cathedral spires.

There is a service for pilgrims every evening, and even for us non-Catholics, it’s supposed to be very much part of the Camino experience. The cathedral was absolutely packed, and the service kicked off with a welcome for pilgrims by a nice old priest attired in vestments of which the Pope himself would be proud. After a certain amount of smells and bells, I realised we were heading for holy communion for a thousand odd people, so it was probably time to slope off. I found a side door in which was carved the inscription Judas primus exivit which, for the uneducated amongst you, means ‘Judas was the first to leave.’ Catholics do guilt so very well.

So, there it is - The Camino Frances. 779km, 1,158,444 steps. A physical challenge and a wonderful opportunity to reflect on one’s life, especially at a time of transition. To all those I met and chatted to on the path, to those who kept me awake with their snoring and even to those who would insist on giving me their blessings; as the Irish have it:

 

“May the road rise up to meet you.

May the wind be always at your back.

May the sun shine warm upon your face,

the rains fall soft upon your fields,

and until we meet again, may God hold you within the palm of His hand.”

 

 

 

 


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