Day 4 - Thoughts from Puente la Reina

 Pamplona was lovely, slightly down at heel, but the feeling of pride for their history and culture was palpable. I certainly enjoyed my hotel near the cathedral, my own bathroom, clean sheets, hot and cold running chambermaids.

I’m pleased I’m only doing hotels occasionally though; you miss so much of the experience by not staying in Albergues (hostels) with your fellow pilgrims. Four days in and I’m starting to understand how this all works. Everybody who starts the Camino in the same place at the same time keeps bumping into each other on the path and in bars and cafes along the way, so people start to know each others' names and can hang out with one another if they so choose. I spent a very happy couple of hours chatting to my favourite civil engineer from California, who I was at dinner with the other evening. Younger than my two boys, and like so many of her generation, is concerned for her future, concerned about the environment and concerned that working for the public good has been eclipsed by avarice and the selfish pursuit of power. As we turned a corner, our conversation was interrupted suddenly by one of my Korean friends; “UK very good, yes?” “Absolutely” I assured him.

The climb out of Pamplona was lovely, stunning views and the rain held off again! At the top of the climb is the iconic sculpture of pilgrims at Alto del Perdón (“Hill of Forgiveness”)

The figures represent pilgrims through the centuries, and the inscription reads:

“Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas”

(“Where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars”)

Then the long descent into Puente la Reina, our destination for today, the Albergue Estrella seems to have a really good vibe, I’m in a room with two bunks, so far occupied by a rather earnest young lady from Utah and a recently retired metropolitan policeman. Should be another interesting evening!


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