Last night’s albergue, La bohème, is what’s called a donativo. There are no fixed fees for these places, you just give a donation when you leave. Typically run by free spirits who have committed themselves to a pilgrim's way of life, David, originally from Brittany, was an incredible host.
Whilst his place was pretty random, nothing was too much trouble, he made everyone’s bed, did all the laundry and was happy to dispense his views on the meaning of life for anyone who wanted to listen. All the beds were in an attic room, I had one of two enormous double beds, everyone else were in bunks arranged around the edges of the room. Downstairs the dinning room had beer and wine on tap and the evening meal when it eventually came, consisted of enormous quantities of lentils and couscous, on reflection, perhaps not the best evening to be packed in a dormitory.
Leg felt alright this morning so set off with full pack for a day in the mountains. There has been a thin, dark line of hills growing on the horizon for the past couple of days and today the Montes de León arrived. The climb took us up to The famous iron cross, the Cruz de Hierro marks the highest point on the Camino at 1500 meters. Traditionally, pilgrims carry a small stone from home and leave it at the foot of the cross as a symbolic act — laying down burdens, regrets, prayers, or memories. Needless to say I forgot my stone. The descent I have to say was horrid, a narrow, shale path with stones exactly the wrong size to walk on, bruising on the feet and one wrong move would result in a turned ankle. Still eventually made it down to the hostel at El Acebo de San Miguel through a baking hot afternoon. Don’t have to worry about my leg anymore as my feet are too sore!
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